Where to stay in Catalonia, from village inns to the Pyrenees and the Delta

Where to stay in Catalonia by area

The places in this guide are spread across four very different areas: the lands of Lleida, the Pyrenees, the south of Tarragona and the arc from Girona to Barcelona. My advice is to decide first what you want to do and only then choose the village, because in Catalonia the trip changes a lot from one region to the next.

Lleida, between wineries, old town and motorway

This is the most practical area for a break or for exploring the interior by car.

• Hostal La Placeta, in Arbeca. Guesthouse with a restaurant and bar beside the church, in the heart of the old town. Guests praise the service, the cleanliness and the breakfast, and the drawback is a mattress that could be better.
• Hostal La Savina, in Cervera. Simple, on the outskirts, with a garden, a porch, a seasonal pool and free parking. Quiet and clean, but it's not for getting around on foot without hills.
• Lo Racó de l'Olivera, in Fonolleres. Hotel right beside the motorway between Lleida and Barcelona, with a garden, a restaurant and function rooms. Good for travelling by car or for a celebration, less so for absolute silence.

The Pyrenees, for skiing and walking

Here the village is your base and the mountain is the plan.

• Hostal Rita Belvedere, in Puigcerdà. Simple guesthouse in the centre of Cerdanya, with its own car park and a terrace with mountain views. Rooms a little old-fashioned but clean, good for a skiing break.
• Fonda Muntanya, in Vilaller. Family inn in the Alta Ribagorça with a private bathroom, heating and Wi-Fi. For walkers and skiers who want a clean bed and friendly service, not for anyone seeking silence during the local festivities.

Tarragona, from the Delta to Els Ports

Two places with very different nature, one of water and rice fields and the other of mountains.

• Caseta Morritos, in Deltebro. Rural house in the heart of the Ebro Delta, with two bedrooms, a fitted kitchen, a terrace overlooking the garden and free parking. Very well rated, though it's worth knowing about the mosquitoes.
• Hostal Ca L’Ángels, in Prat de Comte. Quiet and simple, very close to the Parc Natural dels Ports, with a balcony in the rooms, breakfast, a restaurant and bar. For walking, cycling and good food, not for nightlife.

Girona and Barcelona, from the Empordà to the Penedès

The three places in this area call for knowing what you're going for, because the ratings are more uneven.

• Hostal Adarnius, in La Bisbal d'Empordà. Basic guesthouse in the centre, with a bar and restaurant. The location, the welcome and the home cooking are appreciated, but the rating is low because of the state of the rooms.
• Rural Sant Llop, in Tordera. Rural guesthouse with a bar and restaurant in Hortsavinyà, inside the Montnegre and el Corredor Natural Park. For switching off and eating simply, also with children, without expecting modern comfort.
• Hostel Penedès, in Vilafranca del Penedès. Budget hostel in the centre, with simple rooms and one or two recently refurbished. There are complaints about noise and cleanliness, so it's only for travellers passing through.

What kind of accommodation you'll find in Catalonia

In this selection the simple village guesthouse predominates, with a bar or restaurant and moderate prices. There is also a mountain inn, a road hotel, a rural house in the Delta and two hostels.

This guide doesn't feature large resorts, but practical places with local character. Many have home cooking, and that matters more than the decor. If you're after the most carefully finished charm, the rural house in the Delta and the best-rated guesthouses are where I'd start.

Which place to choose for your trip

It depends mainly on whether you want scenery, comfort or simply a bed on the road. This table gives you a steer by type of trip, and the links are in the areas above.

What to check before booking

Two of these places have a clearly low Google rating, and I'll say so plainly. Hostal Adarnius and Hostel Penedès are the ones I'd only book knowing they're basic, with complaints about the state of the rooms, the noise or the cleanliness.

Think about the surroundings too. Lo Racó de l'Olivera is beside the motorway, and Hostal La Savina is on the edge of Cervera, so neither is for getting around on foot. In the Delta, the mosquitoes are part of the landscape, and it's best to go prepared.

When to visit Catalonia and how to get around

Catalonia can be visited all year round, but each area has its moment. The Pyrenees are for winter skiing and for the months of walking, the Delta is best enjoyed outside the hottest days, and the interior of Lleida and the Penedès, with its wineries, works almost any time.

To get around, the car rules in almost all the accommodation in this guide, especially the rural and mountain ones. In the cities and larger towns there are trains and buses, but to reach Els Ports, the Montnegre or the Delta you'll need wheels. If you combine several areas, plan fewer stops and more time in each.