Where to stay in Sicily, from Palermo's old palaces to Etna's slopes

Where to stay in Sicily, area by area

In Sicily it makes sense to choose one area at a time, because the island is large and the roads are not fast. I suggest seven zones, from Palermo and the nearby mountains down to the south-east and Agrigento, with all the places on the blog grouped by proximity.

Palermo and the nearby mountains

Palermo is the right city for anyone who wants markets, palaces and street life. The inland mountains, between the Madonie and the Nebrodi, suit anyone looking for calm.

• B&B Nonno Peppe, in Palermo. In the historic centre, close to the cathedral and the Ballarò market. Guests praise the breakfast, the cleanliness and the welcome.
• Nuovo Cortile Palermo, in Palermo. In a restored nineteenth-century building between the Mercato del Capo and the Teatro Politeama. Guests like the owner and the location, though some criticise the building and the bathrooms.
• Palazzo Pagliaro, in Santo Stefano di Camastra. A hotel in a restored eighteenth-century palazzo, with local ceramics and free parking. Pets are welcome too.
• Crocco D'Oro Di Sireci Vincenza, in Caltavuturo. Air-conditioned rooms with a terrace in the centre of the village, for getting around by car across the Madonie, Cefalù and Piano Battaglia.
• B&B Serena, in Longi, in the Nebrodi. Spacious, bright rooms, a shared kitchen and terrace, and a lovely view over the valley. For those who want calm rather than a lively village.

The Trapani coast and San Vito Lo Capo

This is the area of sea and nature reserves, with beaches, caves and ancient sites a short distance apart.

• Affittacamere da Noemi, in Castellammare del Golfo. Private rooms a few minutes' walk from the historic centre, with attentive hosts. A simple, clean base.
• B&B La Casa dei Nonni, in Custonaci. A family-run place with a patio and free private parking, convenient for Grotta Mangiapane, Segesta and San Vito Lo Capo.
• Camere da Mariolina, in Macari. Family-run, close to San Vito Lo Capo and the Monte Cofano Nature Reserve, with a balcony, garden and terrace. A few limitations to be aware of.
• Villa Verdesca, in San Vito Lo Capo. Located in Castelluzzo, between the Zingaro Reserve and Monte Cofano, with a garden and panoramic terrace. Breakfast with a view.

Messina, Milazzo and the Aeolian Islands

Here people mostly sleep in order to catch the ferry or hydrofoil. The port decides almost everything.

• B&b Caronte Messina, in Messina. On Viale della Libertà, directly opposite the Strait crossings. Clean, well-kept rooms, but don't expect a sea view.
• Aqua B&B, in Milazzo. New, on the sixth floor of a building in the centre, with spacious rooms and a terrace. Close to the boats to the Aeolian Islands.
• Eolian Port B&B, in Milazzo. A few steps from the port, with self check-in and a balcony. Ideal for a stop before boarding, less so for anyone wanting a personal welcome.
• Perle di Sicilia B&B, in Milazzo. Modern, a short distance from the Baia del Tono and the centre, with spacious rooms and a simple breakfast.

Taormina and the Ionian coast

Between the sea and the castles, this is the area best suited to couples who want Taormina within easy reach without sleeping in the middle of it.

• Bed and Breakfast "Al Comitato", in Giardini Naxos. In the historic centre, close to the sea and the bus stops. Practical and clean, without hotel-style services.
• B&B Semu a Mari, in Santa Teresa di Riva. On the seafront, with rooms that have balconies and a panoramic terrace over the sea.
• B&B Il Siriaco, in Calatabiano. In the old part of town, with a terrace, a garden with a barbecue and a view of the castle. The road in by car, through the narrow lanes, is tight.

Catania and Etna

Catania is best explored on foot and by metro, while Etna is better reached by car from the villages on its slopes.

• B&b Ca' De Andreas, in Catania. In Piazza Cavour, in a historic building close to Piazza Duomo and Via Etnea, with elegant, quiet rooms.
• bed e breakfast - Apartment- storico 17, in Catania. Rooms and apartments close to the central station, with a terrace and a view of Etna from the top-floor flat. For anyone visiting without a car.
• Dimora Lupo_LifeStyle B&B, in Catania. In an old, refurbished building, with balconies and sometimes a view of Etna. Less suited to anyone wanting daily cleaning.
• Scuto Home Apartments, in Catania. New, clean apartments a short walk from the Duomo, with paid parking on site. Tricky for anyone arriving by car.
• B&B Fossanoce, in Belpasso. On the slopes of Etna, with a terrace and air conditioning. Breakfast is taken in a historic partner café.
• B&B Alba, in Viagrande. On the eastern side of Etna, with a well-equipped kitchenette. Very clean and quiet, without hotel-style services.

Siracusa and the south-east

The south-east of Sicily is best explored by car, among baroque towns, countryside and sea.

• B&B Madre Vita, in Siracusa. Located in Belvedere, with a garden, terrace and pool overlooking the valley. Guests like the peace and the welcome, though some reviews criticise the organisation.
• Villa Nunziatina, in Carlentini. A villa with three bedrooms, a seasonal pool, a jacuzzi and a garden between Catania and Siracusa. Suited to families and groups of friends.
• La Gioia di Sicilia b&b, in Avola. Air-conditioned rooms, a private patio and parking. Ask for a room facing the courtyard to avoid road noise.
• B&b La Trinacria Di Capo Passero, in Portopalo. New, spacious rooms, easy parking and a much-appreciated owner. The breakfast, however, divides opinion.
• B&B Casa a Liu, in Portopalo di Capo Passero. In the centre, with new, air-conditioned rooms a few steps from the sea and restaurants within walking distance.

Agrigento and the interior

People come here for the Valley of the Temples and for a less touristy Sicily, made of villages and countryside.

• B&B Mannala', in Agrigento. In the historic centre, on a quiet lane close to Via Atenea and the station. Good for visiting the city on foot.
• Villa Alisia Agrigento, in Agrigento. A B&B with a pool, a jacuzzi and a garden in the countryside of Villaggio Mosè. Some reservations about the furnishings, breakfast and cleanliness.
• Gli Zii di Sicilia, in Racalmuto. In the centre, with a balcony, a well-equipped kitchen and guests who praise the cleanliness and the welcome. Suited to stays of a few nights.
• B&B A casa di amici, in Caltanissetta. Set up in an apartment, with an attentive host. Good for anyone passing through, less so for anyone wanting guaranteed breakfast and quiet.
• Home D&D, in Niscemi. In a quiet area, with a garden, a pool and internal parking. A host that everyone praises.
• Villa Pastorelli, in Pergusa, near Enna. A garden with terraces and a solarium, a private bathroom and free parking. Also suited to weddings and parties, less so for anyone wanting a beach.

What kind of accommodation you find in Sicily

The Sicily I write about is made up mostly of family-run B&Bs, with a few villas with pools, apartments in the cities and a handful of hotels. These are small places, where the welcome and the location matter more than the facilities.

Villas work well for families and groups who want outdoor space, while B&Bs in the historic centres suit anyone who gets around on foot. In the cities, always check the parking and the car access in advance.

Sea, city or interior, where to start

If you are looking for the sea, aim for the Trapani coast or the south-east. For the cities of art, choose Palermo or Catania. For a slower Sicily, look at the interior, between Agrigento, Enna and the mountains.

Don't try to see everything in one trip. Two nearby areas and the time to stop are better than a long route with one night in each place.

Which accommodation to choose for your trip

This table helps you work out where to start, depending on how you travel.

When to go to Sicily and how to get around

The best seasons are spring and autumn, when you can see both the city and the countryside without the fierce heat. Summer is the season for the sea, but also for crowds in the best-known resorts.

To tour the island, the car is almost always the most flexible choice. In the cities, on the other hand, it is better to leave it and get around on foot, with buses and the metro where available. For the smaller islands you travel by boat, so sleeping near the port saves time.