Where to stay in Umbria, from stone hill towns to green countryside
Six places to stay in Umbria, including B&Bs, a small guesthouse and an agriturismo, split between Perugia and Assisi, the Orvieto area and Terni. It suits couples and families who want hill towns, countryside and slow days, with a car for getting around.
6 places to stay
Written by Valeria Romano
Published
Places to stay in Umbria
6 places to stay
Where to stay in Umbria, area by area
In Umbria it makes sense to choose the area first and the property second. The places I suggest sit in three zones: the cities of art in the north, the south-west between Orvieto and Città della Pieve, and Terni further south. From each one you can reach the rest of the region without much back-tracking.
Perugia and Assisi
If it is your first time and you want to see the two headline cities, start here. Perugia is also a good arrival point for anyone travelling by train.
- Perusia Home b&b, in Perugia. It is close to the railway station and has a well-kept garden. I recommend it to anyone arriving by train or car who wants a practical base for the city and for Assisi.
- Camere Calocci, in Assisi. It is in the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza del Comune and the basilicas, with simple, clean rooms. Ideal for seeing Assisi on foot, with a family-run welcome.
Between Orvieto and Città della Pieve
The landscape here is hills, olive groves and vineyards. It is the right area for anyone who wants to stay in the countryside without giving up the hill towns.
- Agriturismo La Vite E L'ulivo, in Baschi. Self-contained apartments among olive groves and vineyards, a seasonal pool and a restaurant serving traditional cooking. A base for Orvieto, also suited to anyone walking the Cammino dei borghi silenti.
- B&B Fontanelle, in Alviano. A country B&B with kitchen-equipped apartments, a garden, a seasonal pool and a view over the valley. I think it suits couples and groups looking for peace and quiet.
- Casina Mazzuoli, in Città della Pieve. It occupies a historic townhouse on Via Vannucci, with period furniture, exposed stone and a little tower with a spiral staircase. Be aware that parking in the historic centre needs planning ahead.
Terni
Terni is less postcard-pretty than the others, but it is convenient for anyone travelling by public transport and for anyone wanting to see the waterfall.
- B&B Civico 100, in Terni. Modern rooms in the centre, a private bathroom and an Italian-style breakfast. From the station, within walking distance, the bus to the Marmore Falls departs. Fine for short stays, whether sightseeing or for work.
What kind of accommodation you find in Umbria
The Umbrian places I cover are mostly bed and breakfasts and guesthouses, almost always small and family-run. Alongside them is a proper agriturismo, with a restaurant and apartments, while elsewhere country stays tend to be simpler.
Don't expect large-hotel services. What you get is the welcome of someone who explains the area to you, a homemade breakfast and clean rooms. In return, in the historic centre you often have to deal with narrow lanes and parking you have to hunt for.
City or countryside, how to choose a base
It depends how you get around. Anyone travelling without a car should sleep in Perugia, Assisi or Terni, where stations and buses do the work. If you have a car, the countryside is an option, and among the olive groves you will find a calm that the cities lack.
For a first trip, I would focus on one area and take your time over it. Umbria is small, but its roads wind through the hills, and crossing from north to south in a single day takes time away from the stops that matter.
Which accommodation to choose for your trip
If you have a particular kind of trip in mind, this table shows where to start. These are only suggestions, and the final choice depends on dates and budget.
| Type of trip | Accommodation I recommend |
|---|---|
| A couples' break among hill towns and views | Casina Mazzuoli, B&B Fontanelle |
| Peace, good food and walks | Agriturismo La Vite E L'ulivo |
| Visiting Assisi without a car | Camere Calocci |
| Arriving by train and touring the cities | Perusia Home b&b |
| A night in transit or a work trip | B&B Civico 100 |
| A group of friends in the countryside | B&B Fontanelle, Agriturismo La Vite E L'ulivo |
When to go to Umbria and how to get around
The best time is spring or autumn, when walking is pleasant and the colours of the hills are at their best. Summer suits anyone looking for a countryside pool, while in winter the hill towns are quieter and more intimate.
For getting around, the car remains the most convenient choice if you stay in the countryside, because public transport does not reach everywhere. The main cities, by contrast, are well linked by train and bus. Always check where you can leave the car in the historic centres, which often have access restrictions.