Where to stay in Trentino-South Tyrol, among valleys, lakes and vineyards

Where to stay in Trentino-South Tyrol, area by area

The places I have gathered sit between the cities on the valley floor and the side valleys, where the road climbs towards meadows and woods. I have split them into four areas, so you can choose according to what you want to see.

Trento and Rovereto

The two cities along the Adige are handy for anyone travelling by car or train and wanting a base for lakes, castles and museums.

• B&B Trento Nord, in Trento. A simple bed and breakfast near the A22 motorway, with free parking and pets allowed. Reviews are split, so read them carefully before booking.
• B&B Color Rovereto, in Rovereto. A small place with rooms and kitchenettes, a private patio and free Wi-Fi, within walking distance of the centre.

Valsugana

The Valsugana is an open valley, with lakes and castles on the valley floor and the Lagorai meadows above. Here you will find both a village B&B and a high-altitude farm stay.

• B&B CastelCharme, in Pergine Valsugana. A family-run place in a quiet area close to the centre, with a good breakfast, clean rooms, a garden and a terrace. The hostess gives excellent advice.
• Rifugio Malga Masi, in Novaledo. A high-mountain farm stay among the Lagorai meadows, with a view over the Valsugana. It is reached on foot, serves Trentino cooking, keeps farmyard animals and has only a few beds.

Val di Cembra and Val di Sole

Two mountain valleys with a relaxed rhythm. Val di Cembra is known for its vineyards on the slopes, while Val di Sole has a more alpine character.

• Hotel Caminetto, in Cembra. A family-run hotel in the centre, with rooms and apartments, a garden, parking and a restaurant. A good base for couples and families looking for cleanliness and calm.
• Agritur Locanda San Martino, in Cavizzana. An inn with rooms, known for its set-menu Trentino cooking and its view over the valley. It is not a conventional hotel.

Merano

Merano is the most northerly point on this list, with arcades, spa baths and promenades.

• City Apartments Portico, in Merano. Apartments with a kitchenette under the arcades, near the spa baths and the centre. The location is the main strength, but guests are divided on cleanliness, space and welcome.

What kind of accommodation you find in Trentino-South Tyrol

The choice here is more varied than it seems. There are bed and breakfasts, apartments with kitchenettes, an inn, a family hotel and an agritur, the Trentino word for a farm stay.

B&Bs are mostly found in towns and villages, and they work well for anyone who moves around each day. Apartments suit those who want to cook and fend for themselves. The inn and the agritur are designed for guests who come for the table and the mountains, and they are not hotels in the traditional sense, so do not expect hotel services.

Trentino or South Tyrol, and what the difference means for where you sleep

The region brings together two different territories, even though they share mountains, valleys and a strong tradition of hospitality. In Trentino you hear Italian and find towns on the valley floor such as Trento and Rovereto, while in South Tyrol, around Merano, the German tradition can be heard in the language as well.

For a trip of hikes, lakes and castles, I would look at the Valsugana and the valleys of Trentino. For a weekend of spas and walks in town, Merano is the most natural choice. Among the Dolomites and the vineyards a little planning is always needed, because distances in the valleys are longer than the map suggests.

Which place to choose depending on your trip

It depends on how high you want to go and how self-sufficient you are. For the valleys you almost always need a car; in town you can manage without one.

When to visit Trentino-South Tyrol and how to get around

Summer and the start of autumn are the best time for walking, cycling and climbing to the high pastures. Winter is the season for snow and mountains, while spring is quieter and suits the towns.

Along the Adige valley you can travel well by train and motorway, and the towns are easy to walk around. For the side valleys and the high pastures, though, you should have a car and, in some cases, good walking boots, as with Malga Masi, which is reached on foot. Cyclists often find routes along the valley floor, and among the places I have gathered there are some set up for them.