Where to stay in Marche, between the Conero coast and the Sibillini

Where to stay in Marche, area by area

In Marche you need to decide between the sea and the inland, since the two are very close but feel quite different. Here I have gathered places on the Conero coast, at Senigallia and in the hills, and inland towards the Sibillini.

Ancona and the Conero

The Conero is the stretch of coast where the hills reach almost down to the sea, with the park behind. Ancona is the main city, while Sirolo is the village for anyone seeking nature and a bit of quiet.

• B&B La Casa in Centro, in Ancona. A well-run bed and breakfast in the heart of the city, with a private bathroom, air conditioning and a breakfast that guests appreciate. Great for getting around on foot, but it is worth having your booking confirmed in writing.
• Affittacamere Villa Ghirardelli, in Sirolo. Close to the historic centre and the Conero Park, with a garden, free parking and simple rooms. For couples and families looking for quiet, less so for anyone who can't tolerate noise.
• La Visciola, in Sirolo. A farm stay in the greenery of the Conero reserve, a few minutes from the centre, with a garden, private parking and breakfast that includes gluten-free options. I recommend it to anyone seeking peace and travelling by car.

Senigallia and the hills by the sea

A little further north the coast opens out, with the beach and centre of Senigallia. Behind it, the hills offer sea views and more silence.

• La Romantica Camere e Wellness, in Senigallia. A small property in the centre with rooms that have hot tubs and saunas, close to the station and the sea. Works for a couple's escape, less so for anyone who only wants a bed.
• B&B Villa Alma, in San Cristoforo. A hillside villa with a seasonal pool, a hot tub and sea views. Popular with couples and families seeking calm and the owner's home cooking.

The inland and the Sibillini mountains

Heading inland, Marche becomes greener and quieter. Here people sleep for the mountains, the villages and the stops along the road.

• B & B Casa Filippini, in Fossombrone. A B&B in the centre, in a quiet area, with spacious rooms, a terrace and free Wi-Fi. I would choose it for a night or two in transit, asking how the room is cooled in the height of summer.
• Hotel Paradiso, in Amandola. A period villa in Liberty style with a garden and a panoramic terrace, well-kept rooms and very well-regarded home cooking. For anyone who loves quiet and family-style hospitality.

What kind of accommodation you find in Marche

In Marche, family-run B&Bs predominate, alongside a farm stay, a period villa and small places with spas. These are small properties, with few rooms and plenty of contact with the people who welcome you.

You won't find large chains among these choices. That is an advantage if you want genuine local advice, and less so if you want hotel services, a reception that is always open or a huge breakfast. For this reason it is worth reading each property's notes carefully.

Sea or inland, how to decide

If you want the sea, sleep between Sirolo and Senigallia. If you want quiet and mountains, head for Amandola and the Sibillini. Fossombrone sits in between, and is handy as a stop.

Hillside places by the sea, such as Villa Alma, make a good compromise. You get the view, the pool and the calm, without giving up the beach a short drive away. In the centre of Ancona or Senigallia, on the other hand, you do everything on foot.

Which accommodation to choose for your trip

The best choice depends on what you expect from your stay. Here is how I would match them up.

When to go to Marche and how to get around

The beach season is summer, but it is also the busiest time on the coast. If you can, choose late spring or early autumn, when the hills are lovely and the coast is more relaxed. For the Sibillini almost any season works, depending on what you are after.

To get around, the car is the best option, especially for places in the hills, the countryside and inland. The coastal towns are easy to explore on foot, and the railway follows the sea, which is useful for travelling between Ancona and Senigallia. Inland, allow for quiet but slower roads.