Where to stay in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, from Arles to the Hautes-Alpes

Where to stay in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur by area

The seven addresses in this guide fall into three areas. There are the towns of Provence that you can explore on foot, the countryside between Avignon and the Alpilles, and the villages and towns that look towards the mountains. I have grouped them by proximity, so you can pick a base and make day trips from it.

Arles, Salon-de-Provence and Aix-en-Provence

This is the urban side of Provence, with practical places to visit on foot or to break a journey.

• Plumard, in Arles. A guesthouse with a garden, terrace and bar. Early guests praise the pop-art décor, the welcome and the bedding.
• La Réserve de Salon de Provence, in Salon-de-Provence. Suites with a kitchenette on the square in front of the town hall. Carefully decorated, with comfortable beds and breakfast left at your door.
• Le Clos de Celony, in Aix-en-Provence. Air-conditioned studios with a kitchenette, on the Avignon road, and free parking. I see it as a practical stop by car rather than a charming address.

Between Avignon and the Alpilles

Here you are in the countryside, in quiet villages from which the main sights are a drive away.

• Le Clos de Calas, in Mollégès. A guesthouse in a landscaped garden with a seasonal swimming pool. Each room has its own private terrace, and several have a kitchenette.
• Maison de village, in Noves. A guesthouse in the old town, overlooking the garden, with a terrace. Guests enjoy the large rooms, the breakfast and the hostess's welcome.

Towards the mountains, Entrevaux and Gap

A change of scenery, with stops for walkers and for those who explore the back country.

• Chez Joëlle et Daniel, in Entrevaux. A guesthouse with a garden, terrace and views of the mountains. Home-made breakfast, a calm setting and tips for walks win over guests.
• Les Olivades, in Gap. A hotel with a restaurant, free parking, air-conditioned rooms and a garden. Guests praise the welcome, the food and the breakfasts.

What kinds of accommodation you find in the region

The guesthouse dominates this selection by a long way, with a few hotels and studio or suite options. The region mixes historic towns, Provençal countryside and mountains, and the accommodation follows that mix.

The guesthouses in Arles, Mollégès, Noves and Entrevaux play the card of a house with a garden or terrace, a shared breakfast and a personal welcome. That is what I would choose for a charming stay. The hotels in Gap and Aix-en-Provence are more functional, with parking and air conditioning, and one of them has its own restaurant. Finally, the studios and suites with a kitchenette suit those who want to be self-sufficient, without set meal times.

Which accommodation to choose for your trip

It all depends on what you are after: a quiet corner, a town you can walk around, or a simple overnight stop. This table sums up my choices by type of trip.

When to go and how to get around

I recommend spring and autumn for walking and sightseeing without the summer crowds. Summer has its attractions, especially if your place has a pool, and the mountains also lend themselves to winter stays. To get around, count on the car.

Towns like Arles are very easy to explore on foot, and the big cities are linked by train. But as soon as you stay in a village, between the Alpilles and Avignon or around Entrevaux, the car is the simplest solution. Addresses with free parking, such as Le Clos de Celony and Les Olivades, score points for that.

Points to check before booking

Not all these addresses have the same track record. Some are very well rated, others have a more modest score or few reviews, and it is best to know that before you choose.

Plumard and Maison de village have very good ratings, but based on a small number of reviews, and Plumard is new. I recommend them, with the caution that goes with that. Le Clos de Celony has the lowest rating in the group, but with a lot of reviews, which confirms its role as a practical stop. As for La Réserve de Salon de Provence, breakfast is left at your door, which will suit independent couples but less so those who want a personal welcome. Chez Joëlle et Daniel and Le Clos de Calas are the two guesthouses that feel most reassuring, thanks to their number of reviews.