Where to stay in Lazio, from the Tuscia lakes to the Pontine coast

Where to stay in Lazio by area

Lazio is much more than Rome, so it helps to choose the area before the property. The places I suggest here fall into four areas: the Tuscia to the north, Rome with its airport and port, the inland Ciociaria, and the Pontine coast to the south.

Tuscia and Lake Bolsena

This is the greenest and quietest part, made up of stone villages, olive groves and hazelnut orchards. A farm stay makes sense here, as long as you have a car.

• Agriturismo La Piantata, in Bolsena. Rooms with a private entrance among olive trees and a garden, and a breakfast with homemade cakes. I recommend it to couples and families who drive, less so to anyone wanting hotel services.
• Affittacamere La Bertina, in Montefiascone. A small family-run place a short walk from the historic centre, with a garden and free parking. Popular with couples, cyclists and pilgrims.
• B&B San Pellegrino, in Viterbo. A historic house in the medieval quarter, with a frescoed hall and a fireplace. Great for walking around the centre, less so if you are after total silence or easy stairs.
• Agriturismo Casale Loreto, in Corchiano. Among hazelnut and olive groves, with a pool and a kitchen using local produce. Suited to anyone looking for quiet, families and cycle tourists, not those wanting nightlife.

Rome, airport and port

You stay here for a specific reason, whether that is a visit to the capital, a flight or a boarding. It is worth understanding that early on, because the properties are very different from one another.

• Domus Maggiore, in Rome. A small property on Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore, a few minutes on foot from Termini, with some rooms looking onto the basilica. Fine for short stays, less so if you want space.
• Hotel Il Quadrifoglio, in Rome. A hotel in the EUR and Mostacciano area, near the Grande Raccordo Anulare ring road, with soundproofed rooms and a buffet. I recommend it to those travelling by car, not to anyone wanting the centre.
• Casa Donna di Cuori, in Fiumicino. A guest house in a quiet residential area near the airport, with a shuttle and a breakfast that guests describe as generous. Less suited to travellers with newborns.
• Guest House Il Faraone, in Isola Sacra. A few minutes from the airport, with air-conditioned rooms, a jacuzzi bath and free bicycles. For those catching a flight or stopping over, not for anyone wanting to sleep in the heart of Rome.
• B&B Carillon Civitavecchia, in Civitavecchia. Close to the port and a stroll from the centre, with clean rooms and polite owners. Ideal if you are boarding, although some reviews mention problems with bookings.

Ciociaria and the inland south-east

Hills, abbeys and villages where the food is good. They are practical bases rather than postcard destinations, and they suit stopovers and work trips.

• Hotel Colosseo, in Colleferro. A hotel with a reception that is always open, a bar and an Italian-style breakfast, handy for the station and the motorway and for visitors to Magicland. Less suited to anyone expecting proper three-star services.
• De Vita Beata Agriturismo, in Veroli. Air-conditioned rooms with a patio, a restaurant and views over the countryside, much appreciated for its cooking. Good for anyone looking for relaxation and good food who does not mind country roads.
• B&B L'Eden, in Cassino. Bright, air-conditioned rooms, a garden, a terrace and private parking. Guests praise the cleanliness and the courtesy of the manager. Good for breaking up a journey or visiting the Abbey.

Pontine coast and the Via Appia

The stretch to the south, between Latina, Terracina and Fondi, works well as a base for the sea and for anyone driving the coast.

• Casetta Gaia, in Latina. A family B&B with a garden, a covered porch, a kitchen for guests and private parking. I choose it for couples, families and anyone travelling with a dog.
• Agriturismo Casa Chiara, in Latina. On the Via Appia, with an outdoor pool, a garden and padel courts. Modern rooms and a breakfast with local produce, good for families and peaceful stopovers.
• Agriturismo Paradiso di Barchi, in Terracina. A garden full of plants, a seasonal pool and a restaurant that is much in demand for ceremonies. I recommend it to families, couples and anyone looking for a place to hold a party.
• B&B Il Cantuccio, in Fondi. Spacious, clean rooms with a balcony and a host who is much appreciated. A quiet starting point for the beaches and the surroundings, more than a luxury stay.

What kinds of places you will find in Lazio

Small family-run places dominate in Lazio, with a few practical hotels near Rome and the transport hubs. If you are looking for large resorts there is little choice here, but if you want hospitality and a breakfast made at home you will have plenty.

Farm stays are in the countryside and towards the coast, often with a pool and local cooking. They are the right choice for families and couples with a car, less so for anyone wanting nightlife on the doorstep.

B&Bs and guest rooms are the most numerous and often cost less than a hotel. The management and the location count for more than services, and reviews almost always talk about the owner. Proper hotels are few and mainly serve people working here or passing through.

Which place to choose for your trip

It depends on what you need to do more than on your budget. If you have an early flight, sleep close to the airport; if you want the Tuscia, you need the countryside; if you want Rome, you need somewhere within walking distance of the station.

When to visit Lazio

The best time is between spring and autumn, when the weather is mild and the days are long. Summer is hot and crowded on the coast, while winter is quiet and ideal for the hill towns and for Rome without the queues.

For the lake and the Tuscia countryside, the shoulder seasons are worth aiming for. The Pontine coast makes most sense in the sea months, but out of season it is quieter and easier to enjoy.

How to get around Lazio

For Rome and most regional capitals the train works well, but for farm stays and hill villages you almost always need a car. Think about parking before you book, especially in the centre.

Places near the airport and the port are handy for transfers, but from there it is best to get around with your own vehicle or a shuttle. Anyone wanting to combine Rome and the countryside can stay outside the city and make day trips, avoiding traffic and central prices.