Where to stay in Emilia-Romagna, from the Riviera to the art cities

Where to stay in Emilia-Romagna, area by area

Emilia-Romagna has two faces. On one side is the Romagna Riviera and the green Romagna hinterland, on the other the art cities along the Via Emilia and the countryside of the plain and the hills. This guide covers ten places, split into four areas that are easy to reach from one another.

Romagna Riviera and around

For the sea and a simple holiday, with beaches, nightlife and Romagna cooking.

• Hotel Marittima Rimini, in Rimini. A three-star hotel in Marina Centro, a short walk from the sea, with air-conditioned rooms, a buffet breakfast and staff that guests praise a lot. Suits couples, sports groups and anyone who gets around on foot.
• Affittacamere Ceccarini, in Riccione. Rooms with a private bathroom in the centre, a few steps from Viale Ceccarini and the sea. A clean base for couples and families; breakfast, according to one guest, is taken at the bar opposite.
• Hotel Venus, in Bellaria-Igea Marina. A family-run hotel near the beach, with balcony rooms, a buffet breakfast and a restaurant. Reviews are split between the food and the welcome, which guests like, and rooms that feel dated, so choose knowing what to expect.
• Agriturismo Perugini, in Cesena. A farm stay set in greenery, with practical rooms and a restaurant serving Romagna cooking. Guests praise the food, cleanliness and space for children, while a few criticise the portions and the bill. Suits families, couples and anyone travelling with pets.

Bologna and Ferrara

Two cities to explore without rushing, one livelier and one quieter.

• B&B Central Suite, in Bologna. A small B&B in an apartment on Viale Aldini, about a fifteen-minute walk from the centre. Rooms are clean and the self-service breakfast is generous, but some guests mention problems at check-in, so it is best to agree your arrival time in advance.
• Palazzo della Racchetta, in Ferrara. A historic residence a few steps from the Duomo, with large rooms and period furniture. I would pick it for anyone who likes to walk the centre and loves old palaces, knowing it is not a hotel in the classic sense.

Modena and Parma

Cities of good food, easy to explore on foot and with places to stay right in the centre.

• Residence Della Accademia, in Modena. Self-contained apartments in the historic centre, in a limited traffic zone, with kitchens and prices that guests describe as moderate. Good for short stays, couples and work trips, less so for anyone after total silence.
• Palazzo Bianchi, in Parma. A historic palazzo near the Baptistery and the Duomo, with spacious apartments and a terrace among the rooftops. For anyone who wants space and to explore the city on foot, less so for those looking for hotel-style services.

Hills and the lower Parma plain

Countryside and quiet, with the car close at hand.

• Villa Dacia Casarelax, in Guiglia. A restored historic villa in the province of Modena, with stone and wood interiors, a garden with a jacuzzi, a restaurant and private parking. For couples and anyone travelling by car who wants calm.
• Al Budri Agriturismo, in Ragazzola. Air-conditioned rooms and apartments, a garden with a terrace and a restaurant serving Emilian cooking. A good fit for families, cyclists and a quiet stay, a short drive from Parma.

What kind of accommodation you find in Emilia-Romagna

In the cities you will find apartments, B&Bs and historic palazzi in the centre; by the sea, family-run hotels; in the countryside, farm stays and villas with a restaurant. The offer follows the geography, and the food is almost always part of the choice.

For me the most typical feature is the farm stay with its own table, like the ones in Cesena or Ragazzola: you sleep and eat well without getting back in the car at night. In town, though, it pays to aim for a place from which you can reach everything on foot.

Which to choose depending on your trip

If you want the sea, stay on the Riviera; if you want culture, choose a city; if you want peace, head for the hills. Do not try to combine everything from one base, because the days fill up faster than you expect.

What to look for in reviews before booking

Reviews are more mixed here than elsewhere, so read them carefully. Hotel Venus has a low Google rating, but its comments separate the food and welcome from the dated rooms; B&B Central Suite divides guests over check-in.

I prefer to know what to expect and choose with my eyes open, rather than trust a number alone. For places with few reviews, such as Residence Della Accademia, the same applies in reverse.

When to visit Emilia-Romagna and how to get around

The Riviera comes alive in summer, while the art cities are best enjoyed in spring and autumn, when walking is pleasant and it is less muggy. Between cities the train works well and makes sense if you sleep in Bologna, Modena or Parma.

For the hills and countryside, though, you need a car. Modena and Parma have limited traffic zones in their historic centres: ask your accommodation where to leave the car before you arrive.