Where to stay in Liguria, from the Riviera to the Cinque Terre

Where to stay in Liguria by area

Liguria is a narrow strip between the sea and the mountains, and the area you choose changes the whole trip. The places in this guide sit in four areas, the Ponente Riviera, the hinterland, Genoa with the Tigullio, and La Spezia.

Ponente Riviera

From the French border as far as Finale Ligure, this is the coast of seafront promenades and beaches within walking distance. People usually choose it for the sea, and location matters more than the room.

• Villa mare Blu, in Ventimiglia. Air-conditioned apartments with a fitted kitchen, a terrace and private parking, a short distance from the beach. I'd suggest them to families and groups who want to be self-catering, including those travelling with motorbikes or pets.
• Hotel Sole, in Diano Marina. A family-run hotel a few steps from the beach and the centre, with simple rooms with a balcony, a restaurant and free bike hire. Opinions are very mixed, so read the complaints first.
• B&B La Rosa Dei Venti, in Alassio. In the heart of the village and very close to the beach, with air-conditioned rooms, a terrace and an Italian breakfast. I'd recommend it to couples and to anyone who wants to get around on foot, accepting an entrance that isn't perfect.
• AuStrAle Affittacamere, in Albenga. Air-conditioned rooms with a private bathroom, close to the old town, the station and the sea. Good for anyone after cleanliness, a convenient location and an attentive host, without hotel luxuries.
• I campi di lino, in Finale Ligure. B&B set in greenery with a garden and free parking, where the breakfast and the hostess are the most praised things. Ideal if you're driving, knowing the motorway is nearby.
• Il Pozzo e il Melograno, in Finale Ligure. In a historic villa with a garden near Finalborgo, with spacious rooms and homemade breakfast. Suited to couples, families and anyone with a dog, but not to those who want to be in the centre.

Inland Liguria

Behind the coast the pace and the temperature change. Villages, trails and home cooking make the hinterland a smart choice for anyone seeking cool air and quiet, but you'll need a car.

• Albergo Ristorante Cecchin, in Balestrino. Small hotel with a restaurant, a garden, a panoramic terrace and simple, clean rooms. Dogs are welcome. Good for quiet and cool air close to the sea, but opinions on the restaurant are very divided.
• Ca' de Bací Du Mattu, in Mendatica. Mountain house with a studio for self-catering stays and a room serving local cooking. I'd recommend it to anyone looking for quiet, trails and cycling.
• Albergo Belvedere, in Ossegna. Family hotel with a restaurant, a garden and a panoramic terrace. Simple, slightly vintage rooms and generous cooking. For those who want home flavours rather than modern design.
• Hotel Villa Carla, in Pontevecchio. Rooms with a balcony, a garden, free parking and a restaurant, with home cooking that guests praise. I think it works well as a stop on a walking route or a motorbike trip.
• Affittacamere Dall'Acquarone, in Masone. In the old centre, with private rooms that have a balcony facing the mountains and a shared kitchen. Very high ratings, and a good base for trekking and for reaching Genoa.

Genoa and the Tigullio

Between the capital and the Gulf of Tigullio you'll find historic villas and calmer neighbourhoods than the centre, with the sea always in view.

• Villa d'Albertis, in Crevari, on the outskirts of Genoa. Air-conditioned apartment in a historic villa, with a garden, a terrace, a barbecue and a sea view. For couples and families who want greenery without leaving the city.
• B&B Villa Olimpo, in Rapallo. Historic villa on the Gulf of Tigullio, with a garden, a panoramic terrace and a sea-facing veranda. Carefully prepared breakfast and an attentive hostess, rather than hotel-style services.

La Spezia and the Cinque Terre

Staying in La Spezia rather than in the villages of the Cinque Terre is often the more practical choice, because the train goes everywhere.

• Affittacamere Everest, in La Spezia. Rooms in a building near the station, praised for cleanliness, bathrooms and a location for the Cinque Terre and Portovenere. Evening noise and parking are the drawbacks.
• Agriturismo La Pietra, in La Spezia. On the hills among the olive trees, with views over the city, the port and the gulf, clean rooms and a buffet breakfast. Made for those who arrive by car and want quiet.

What kind of accommodation you'll find in Liguria

In Liguria B&Bs and rooms to rent predominate, followed by small family hotels and a few villas or apartments. Farm stays are rare, and the more rural side of things is found mainly in the hinterland.

On the coast the rooms are often simple and the real value is the location. In the inland villages you'll find hotels with restaurants instead, where you eat in and sleep at more relaxed prices. Villas with a view are the best choice if you want the sea and silence without the pace of the beach.

Which place to choose for your trip

First decide whether you want the sea, the trails or the train. Then choose the accommodation that saves you a car, stairs and time, because in Liguria geography is part of the game.

When to go to Liguria

The best season is between spring and early autumn, when the sea is pleasant and the trails aren't too hot. Summer fills the coast and prices rise, while the hinterland stays cool and quieter.

In winter the coastal climate is mild and the villages are quiet, but some businesses close. For walking along the sea paths and through the villages, the shoulder seasons are unbeatable.

How to get around Liguria

The coast is well served by the train, which links most of the villages and reaches the Cinque Terre. For the hinterland and for places on the hills you'll need a car, with narrow roads and bends to take carefully.

Parking is the weak point of many centres, so check it before you book. If you travel by motorbike or bike, the hinterland has some of the most beautiful roads and trails in the region.