Where to stay in Galicia, from the Camino hostels to the rías

Where to stay in Galicia by area

The seven places in this guide fall into three areas: the northern ría, the stretch of the Camino that ends in Santiago, and the Rías Baixas. If your trip revolves around the Camino de Santiago, start with O Pedrouzo and Santiago; if you are after the sea and seafood, look south.

Pontedeume and the northern ría

• Hostal San Cristóbal, in Pontedeume. A simple hostal with a garden, a terrace, free parking and views over the ría. It sits up a hill, after a climb, and the staff get very good reviews, while the facilities divide opinion more.

O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela

• Hostel Azul Cielo, in O Pedrouzo. A pilgrim hostel with a garden, shared rooms and bathrooms separated by gender. Reviews are very good, but there is one serious complaint about cleanliness worth reading.
• Pensión Compas, in O Pedrouzo. A guesthouse on Avenida de Lugo, right on the line of the Camino, with a private bathroom, free parking and home cooking. Dogs are allowed, but the comfort is basic and there is no lift.
• Hostal San Paio, in Santiago de Compostela. A family-run hostal in A Lavacolla, near the airport, with its own restaurant, free parking and rooms from singles to family rooms. Friendly staff and a reasonable price rather than luxury.

Rías Baixas, from Redondela to Vilanova de Arousa

• Hostal Chocolate & Menta Redondela, in Redondela. Rooms with a private bathroom, some with views over the ría, free parking and a bar. It is an affordable and friendly base, as long as a nearby train line and the lack of a lift don't bother you.
• Albergue peregrinos Caldas de Reis, in Caldas de Reis. Simple accommodation for pilgrims and small groups, with a shared kitchen, a lounge and a terrace. It stands out for its staff and beds, although opinions are divided on cleanliness and bookings.
• Hostal-Restaurante Luz de Luna, in Vilanova de Arousa. A hostal with a restaurant a few steps from the O Terrón beach, with simple rooms, some with a sea-facing balcony, and a much-loved terrace.

What kind of accommodation you'll find in Galicia

In this selection the hostals and the albergues set the tone, meaning practical places at a moderate price. There is also a guesthouse. There are no luxury hotels or country houses, which is a clear sign of who this guide is for.

The albergues serve people walking the Camino: shared rooms, sometimes a communal kitchen, and plenty of life among travellers. The hostals and the pension offer a little more privacy, with a private bathroom in most cases and often a restaurant or bar in the same building, which is welcome at the end of a long day.

What you won't find here is spas or designer rooms. In return, the service is usually the best-rated thing, and in Galicia that counts for a lot. If you are after a country house with stone walls and a fireplace, this guide does not offer one yet.

What to look for in reviews before booking

Almost all of these places have a decent rating and reviews that vary, which is normal for simple places. What helps is knowing what keeps coming up and whether it matters to you.

• Cleanliness comes up as a divided point in the albergues. Read it calmly and decide according to your own standards.
• The lack of a lift is mentioned at the guesthouse in O Pedrouzo and at the hostal in Redondela. If you have a heavy suitcase or a bad knee, factor it in.
• Free parking is available at almost every hostal, and if you are driving around the rías it is a real advantage.
• Hills matter: the hostal in Pontedeume sits high up, and arriving on foot is tiring.

Which to choose for your trip

It depends on whether you walk or drive. For the Camino, the options in O Pedrouzo and Caldas de Reis are already on the route; for a seaside break, Vilanova de Arousa and Redondela are better bases.

If you are torn between two, I would go with the one rated highest by someone who travelled as you do. The ones in Redondela and Vilanova de Arousa have the highest ratings on the list.

When to go to Galicia

Spring and early autumn are the kindest times for walking or exploring the rías, with green countryside and fewer people. Summer is best for the beach and also the busiest on the Camino, so book ahead.

Galicia is green for a reason: it rains, and it can do so in any season. Always pack a waterproof and don't plan around the sun alone. In winter there are fewer travellers and some businesses close or cut back on services, which is worth checking with the accommodation.

How to get around Galicia

For the rías and small villages, the car is the most convenient option, which is why free parking matters so much. For the Camino, on the other hand, you go on foot and choose accommodation by the stage.

Santiago is the great transport hub: it has an airport, trains and buses to almost everywhere. Several of the towns in this guide, such as Redondela, are also on the train line, although that means, as some reviews warn, that you can sometimes hear trains passing. To combine coast and city, the most practical approach is to pick one base and travel out from it.