Casa Baita al Taverni, a mountain retreat in Subbiano
Casa Baita al Taverni is a mountain chalet with rooms and home cooking in Geppino, Falciano, in the municipality of Subbiano, province of Arezzo. Surrounded by woods and trails, it suits anyone looking for cool air and quiet who does not mind a difficult road. Less so if you want hotel-style service.
Written by Valeria Romano
Published
Mapiola is a travel blog: this is not the official website of Casa Baita al Taverni.
Where Casa Baita al Taverni is and how to get there
Casa Baita al Taverni is at Località Geppino, in Falciano, in the municipality of Subbiano, province of Arezzo. It sits inside a nature reserve, in the Alpe di Catenaia area, between the Tiber valley and the Casentino. It is not a place you pass through by chance. You go there on purpose.
The first thing to say is about the road. One guest writes that the place is hard to reach even with a four-wheel drive, and that the directions on the booking portal, both the times and the distances, were wrong. Others do not mention it, but I would study the route before setting off and not rely on the sat nav alone, especially in winter, when according to guests the snow is frequent.
To get your bearings, the listing mentions a few kilometres from the centre of Subbiano, about 27 km from Piazza Grande in Arezzo and about 94 km from Perugia airport. Here the car is the only sensible choice, and the private car park is free.
What the rooms are like and what you can eat
At Casa Baita al Taverni you sleep in family rooms with a private bathroom, bidet and hairdryer, and you eat in a restaurant that guests remember above all for the cooking. Around it there is a large garden, an indoor bar and, according to the listing, a whirlpool bath too. Pets are allowed and smoking is not permitted.
- The rooms. They are family rooms, with a full private bathroom. One guest found them in need of a better clean, so check the most recent reviews before deciding.
- The outdoor spaces. The garden and outside areas are among the things guests mention most. In the evening it gets cool outside, and one person recommends bringing a light jumper.
- Breakfast. It is included in the stay, but one guest called it passable and would have liked homemade cakes instead of packaged ones.
- Check-in is from 3 pm to 10 pm and check-out is by 11 am.
What guests say about Casa Baita al Taverni
The Google rating is 4.3 from 130 reviews. Reading the comments, almost everyone talks about the restaurant more than the rooms, and the picture is good but not uniform.
- The food. Many guests enjoy the genuine local dishes, with handmade pasta, ravioli, wild boar and cacciatora, as well as boards of cured meats and quality cheeses. One vegetarian guest says she ate very well.
- The atmosphere. More people talk about a mountain-hut feel, cool air even in summer, a family welcome and a quiet place that is friendly to animals.
- The criticisms. Paper plates and cups, mentioned by two guests, a service that was a little slow at first, and prices that some find fair and others find too high.
The most recent reviews need reading carefully. Two very disappointed guests, one after a lunch on 15 August, write about a change of management, small portions and a choice cut down to two first courses and two main courses of game. Another person, on the other hand, speaks of new management that has brought many improvements. Your verdict depends a lot on when you go and what you order.
What to know before booking
The downsides of Casa Baita al Taverni are few but real, so it helps to know them first. I have set them out below next to what works.
| Aspect | What works | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Location | Nature, cool air, trails | Difficult road, frequent snow in winter |
| Food | Genuine, traditional dishes | Limited choice and prices discussed in recent reviews |
| Service | Warm, family welcome | Sometimes slow at first |
| Rooms and breakfast | Family rooms with private bathroom | Cleaning and breakfast criticised by one guest |
| Tables | Cosy atmosphere | Not many covers |
As there are not many covers, book even if you are only coming for lunch. And if you are arriving to stay the night, ask in advance how to reach the chalet and what is served for dinner.
Who I recommend it for
I would choose it for an escape from the heat, for someone who wants to walk and eat well more than for comfort.
- Anyone who loves trekking and mountain biking, as guests talk about CAI trails suitable for walks and mountain bike rides.
- Travellers with a pet, since the property accepts animals and is described as animal friendly.
- Anyone who wants a break from city temperatures and is in no hurry.
I would not send people who do not want to drive on a difficult road, anyone expecting hotel-style service, or anyone wanting a carefully prepared dinner served on proper crockery.
Things to do around Subbiano
The thing to do here is walk. Guests remember the CAI trails for trekking and mountain biking, the snowshoe outings when it snows, and the climb towards the Sasso della Regina, where one couple passed almost by chance and then stayed on for lunch.
For a city outing there is Arezzo, which the listing mentions as a reference point. If you are planning a longer tour of Tuscany, I would also point you to Alla Battuta (Sansepolcro), Agriturismo Crocino in Chianti (Lecchi in Chianti) and B&B Cavour 10 (Florence).
Passionate about travel and about the kind of places that turn a getaway into something unforgettable. I love writing about hotels, country houses and charming hideaways, helping every traveller find the perfect place to rest and feel at home.
